7 Rue Carmes, 13200 Arles 04 90 91 07 69.

Cost for two: 130 € (lunch). September 2007
Web www.rabanel.com

Jean-Luc Rabanel is now well established in his intimate central Arles restaurant. Fuelled by a nearby organic vegetable garden the dishes come as waves of creative tapas along with a more conventional main course such as succulent salt-crust roast Guinea Fowl with garlic. Each dish is explained in detail and there's great attention to taste, textures and of course ingredients where vegetables star. The lunch menu is excellent value plus enjoy the good service and relaxed atmosphere. Expect to pay Provence prices for wine.

21 Rue Carmes, 13200 Arles 04 90 47 61 13.

Cost for two: 80 €. April 2008
Web www.bistro-acote.com

Jean-Luc Rabanel's bistro is next to L'Atlier where much of the preparation takes place, such as a melt in the mouth 24 hour cooked shoulder of pork with potatoes Boulangere cooked to perfection. Obviously there are short cuts, such as the biscuit like base of an otherwise excellent Pissaladiere with sardines and salad leaves, but the quality of ingredients is excellent. The bar with open kitchen area behind adds to the fun ambiance, although I'm not so convinced about the pair of large TV screens. A bonus is they open 7 days a week 9 to late and the tapas on offer make it ideal for an early evening pit stop.

Route de l'Aéroport, 30128 Garons (west of Nîmes) 04 66 70 08 99

Cost for two: 130 €. April 2004 and previous visits
Web www.michelkayser.com

The airport is a small local affair and Garons is a sleepy town but Alexandre has a refreshing garden setting with friendly and helpful staff. Here the cooking is vibrant with Provençale colours and ingredients - yes this isn't the rustic Languedoc. New in 2004 was a rebuild of the kitchen and dining room.

7 Rue de Bernis, 30000 Nîmes 04 66 21 04 45

Cost for two: 65 €. October 2003 and April 2000
Facebook page

Lutz Engelmann of the Auberge du Cedre sent us to this gem of a bistro in central Nîmes. What you will find is a range of freshly prepared and keenly priced dishes and friendly staff. On the wine front expect to choose from a handful of simple regional gems. We would certainly go more often if it was nearer and I had a good report in 2007.

27 Rue de l'Aiguillerie, 34000 Montpellier 04 67 55 08 71

Cost for two: 130 €. Apr 2010 and many visits
Web www.celliermorel.com

Conveniently located in the old town Pierre Morel's dishes are carefully prepared along simple clean lines with good ingredients. Arguably several dishes are more complex that necessary, but this is a minor point and certainly doesn't apply to the sublime aligot. A pleasant cool cellar ambiance, lively diners and excellent staff make this an enjoyable package. Last but not least is Eric Cellier's wine list.

Domaine de Cazeneuve, 34270 Lauret 04 67 59 02 02

Cost for two: 75 €. Many visits
Web www.auberge-du-cedre.com email welcome@auberge-du-cedre.com

First the logistics. Unless you stay here you can only eat in the restaurant at weekends and bank holidays when the simple set menu is supplemented by an enticing carte. As a setting it's a fairytale - patio, views, gardens, a hidden pool. The food, served in a glorious orangerie or on the terrace, is up to date and tasty using local ingredient such as beef from the hidden valley near Saint Jean de Bueges. Local wine is a passion with matured bottles from the cream of the region at reasonable prices. By the glass aperitifs cover all styles and are not to be missed at either end of your meal. There's something to enchant everyone from gourmet to family - this is somewhere you can hide away from the outside world and dream.
Check all the details on their informative web site Auberge du Cedre.

Mas de Baumes, 34190 Ferrières les Verreries 04 66 80 88 80.

Cost for two: 150 € (à la carte). September 2006.
Web www.oustaldebaumes.com

A tip off from Lutz Engelmann of the nearby Auberge du Cedre (see above) led us to this renovated Mas and one time glass making site (Verrerie) in the middle of garrigue just north of the Pic St Loup. Local chef Eric Tapis offers sound contemporary dishes from a shortish menu using seasonal regional ingredients. He keeps the dishes simple, examples being an egg gateau with ceps and roast pigeon with figs. Downside? Salmon of undeclared origin as the only fish on offer and desserts that were OK but no more. Note this is also a hotel and certainly a place to get away from it all.
For directions see www.oustaldebaumes.com

19 rte Cévennes, 34380 St Martin de Londres 04 67 55 75 90

Sadly the local Midi-Libre journal reported Les Muscardins closed in June 2011.

Saugras, 34380 Argelliers 04 67 55 08 71

Cost for two: 75 €. June 2006 and October 1995

This is a hard to find stone auberge in the holm oaks of limestone country. It's due south of Voils-le-Fort north west of Montpellier on the minor road D127. Food is hearty traditional country fayre and slow cooked dishes are usually featured, but vegetables are thin on the ground and deserts are clumsy. That said the French dine here and they open on Mondays.
A lunch in 2006 was highlighted by a Riz de Bétail (young cattle) with ceps, parsley and garlic accompanied by lentils.

Hotel Le Guilhaume d'Orange, 34150 Saint Guilhem le Désert, 04 67 57 24 53

Cost for two: 55 € (lunch). September 2008 and April 2007
Web www.guilhaumedorange.com

This famous village wedged in a limestone valley is one of the big Languedoc attractions and an unlikely hunting ground for a good meal. A tip off from our wine merchants the Berry's (Languedoc specialists - see Vins Fins de la Crau) brought us here. Overlooking the gorges of the Hérault, there are tables outside and has an unpretentious family run atmosphere. The simple food is generally done well. Entrecote came with aubergine and, unusually for France, parsnip. The short wine list is superb value for nearby big names such as Moncalmes and Les Terrasses d’Elise.

Le Pelican Ferme Auberge, 34150 Gignac 04 67 57 68 92

Cost for two: 80 €. April 2001
Web Domaine de Pelican

Only open at weekends off season but worth seeking out for genuine Ferme Auberge home cooking in an appropriate setting. Chicken in leeks with a hint of Roquefort was a first rate example. Wine is made on the Domaine and certainly keeps the cost down. Check home page map for location and directions. Popular so book well ahead. Good report from friends in June 2011 keeps this entry current.

3 bd de l’Esplanade, 34150 Gignac 04 67 57 50 83

Cost for two: 110 €. May 2011 and many visits
Web www.restaurant-delauzun.com

Young local chef Matthieu de Lauzun has now realised his dream of running a restaurant following some serious cooking experience across France. The dishes are refined and befit the more urban than country feel of the tastefully refurbished dining room. Perfectly executed chicken croquettes come with carrots presented three ways. 24-hour cooked belly of pork is melt in the mouth and desserts get equal care in preparation. The cooking manages sophistication without flavours competing against each other. The wine list offers some good value if you avoid the big names - try the elegant La Reserve d'O from nearby Arboras.

Place, 34725 St. Guiraud 04 67 96 67 96

Cost for two: Dinner 160 €. Many visits
Web Le Mimosa

Good news. Le Mimosa opens as usual for a 28th year of Bridget and David Pugh's perfect country restaurant. Simple and intelligent food using top quality ingredients that also excites, a relaxed homely atmosphere, comfortable but not grand, warm service, great value, world class niche wine list, outstanding cheese board. This is their magic.
Over the years since 1984 Bridget and David Pugh have created this perfection and since "discovering" it in April 1993 we have been fortunate to eat here more than anywhere else. Take the menu proposed verbally of four dishes from the carte, plus cheese (home matured and not to be missed) and the dessert trolley. The wine list is a gem for the local wines, plus growers from the Rhone and Provençe, and is a showpiece for the most exciting up and coming wine region in the world For 28 € David will provide you with an appropriate interesting wine for each course. For accommodation they have a super nearby hotel at Saint Saturnin - a traditional village building tastefully renovated.
Open for dinner only Tuesday to Saturday (Sunday in July-August) and for lunch on Sunday.

23 Place de l'Horloge, 34150 Montpeyroux 04 67 44 49 80

Cost for two: 60 € lunch, 70 € dinner. Many visits
Web La Terrasse du Mimosa

The Pughs of Le Mimosa (above) run this wine bar and cavist by the place of Montpeyroux. Simple Mimosa touches and last minute finishing of dishes, such as dressing salads, making stock to cook rice and home made desserts, put many more expensive menus to shame. Aubrac beef from herds in the nearby Puech Séranne is superb as are the local organic pork products. A simple tapas of chicken wings simply left one craving for more. The 19 € three course lunch (Sunday's included) is the best deal on this site, and the four course dinner is little more. The finest local wines at all price points are listed and available to take away from the cave and there's always a good selection by the glass. With a fixed 9€ "doite de bouchon" this is the place to indulge in more expensive bottles

Poujols, 34700 Soubes 04 67 44 03 78

Regrettably now closed.

30 rue Révolution, 34200 Sète 04 67 18 98 72

Cost for two: 70 €. April and September 2008
Web www.restaurant-seletpoivre.com

This is just what Sete needs, a contemporary bistro with a city atmosphere well away from the tourist traps by the harbour. Run by a hands on couple who appear to do everything, Sel et Poivre is small and intimate with a good buzz. The blackboard offers a good choice up to three course menu for lunch and dinner. A second blackboard has a short but balanced wine list. Prawn brochettes with a sea urchin coral sauce and crepe wrapped vegetables was the star entrée. Fresh four cheese ravioli plus chicken breast stuffed with apricots accompanied by top notch vegetables were admirable mains. Some dishes need a little refinement, but this is a promising start and refreshingly unpretentious.

La Coquerie

Home

Back

1 chemin du Cimetière Marin, 34200 Sète 06 47 06 71 38

Cost for two: 150 €. October 2011
Web www.annemajourel.fr

Anne Majourel was at the stoves for 20 years at the Ranquet in the Gard (near Anduze) - we were a fan. In Sete she has created a layout to interact with her diners – half the already small dining area is the kitchen. Anne cooks and often serves the dishes to personally explain them.
The menu offers no choice and changes daily according to the ingredients, especially fish, she buys at Les Halles. Plats might include filleted red mullet layered around a slice of hot foie gras or loin of sea bass from a large wild fish with sun tomatoes and basil.For dessert, baked local pear with a verbena sablé and a glace of quince and rosemary. The dishes aren’t over elaborate and rely on herbs for seasoning and to accentuate freshness.
Husband Jean-Luc acts as sommelier and the wine list appears to be a selection of organic regional wines. Can't wait to return.

West end of Bouzigues, 34140 Bouzigues 04 67 78 33 23

Cost for two: 65 €. May 1997

France abounds with seaside seafood restaurants. What makes Les Jardins different, beyond fresh ingredients simply prepared, is the location by the etang and the shack of a restaurant complete with family run atmosphere. Bouzigues is a simple oyster village by the enormous Bassin de Thau and is away from the modern commercialisation of the Mediterranean coast. Apparently still going strong.

Vinipolis, 5 av. des Vendanges, 34510 Florensac, 04 67 77 03 05

Cost for two: 45 €. May 2010 + previous visits
Email cave.florensac@wanadoo.fr

Local chef legend Jean-Claude Fabre has helped establish this new venture in the modern building behind the local wine cooperative. Sunday lunch was packed with locals but service purred along impressively. For 19 € you get three courses that included succulent spit roast shoulder of lamb with delicious penne pasta and a sensational rice pudding with raspberries and orange. While the dishes do rely heavily on advanced preparation and it seems the catering is on a canteen scale, this was a masterclass on what can be achieved. With the co-op wine available at near cellar door prices the package is near unbeatable.

Hôtel du Golf, Île de loisirs, 34300 Cap d'Agde 04 67 26 87 18

Cost for two: 100 €. October 2008 + previous visits
Web www.hotel-du-golf.com

Our last meal here was competent hotel cooking and no more - the magic touches, such as seafood sauces, of consultant local chef legend Jean-Claude Fabre were clearly absent. We suspect Jean-Claude is no longer involved (see Bistro d'Alex above). Bavette steak with caramelised onions and a pear and rhubarb crumble were good dishes but weak starters make 35 € for three courses poor value. Also in decline is the wine list - much shorted and heavily marked up.

8 avenue Louis Montagne, 34120 Pézenas 04 67 90 00 00

Cost for two: 100 € (carte). November 2008 + several visits
Email entre-pot@orange.fr

To arrive on an off-season Monday lunch to find a virtually full dining room, actually a large arched cave, rapidly fuels anticipation. A dish of duck cooked 3 ways with sticky red rice and sublime baby vegetables was a star, as was raspberry millefeuille with anis crème patisserie. Only the simple starters didn't stand out. Quality local wine list, although there is nothing below 20 € and mark ups are simply offensive. The sheltered outside patio at the back contrasts the cool arched main dining room. Don't be put off the unattractive, by Pézenas standards, location. A pity it doesn't offer better overall value, even by Pézenas standards.

10 bis rue Mercière, 34120 Pézenas 04 67 09 42 56

Cost for two: 90 €. Several visits

Wedged between two high white stone buildings Les Palmiers, with a great al fresco atmosphere and some interesting ironwork, is a strong recommendation. The food is eclectic ranging from braised rabbit with olives, through Moussaka, to Brandade of haddock with gambas. A bonus is a quality short local wine list. The set lunch remains a good deal, otherwise expect Pézenas prices. Only opens for dry days in summer.

6 avenue de Verdun, 34120 Pézenas 04 67 90 13 80

Cost for two: 75 €. June 2011 plus lunches

Les Marronniers has a local reputation for evening tapas and plancha dishes but at lunch there's an accomplished bistro meal on offer. Leeks à la Catalane, rustic leek and cheese tarte, chou farci that was certainly the business and bavette steak didn't fail to please. More recently a gratin of cep ravioli had delicious pasta. Be warned, a tapas and plancha dinner took too many shortcuts and was totally devoid of green vegetables. The short wine list still has bottles under 20€.
The bar dining area has a great atmosphere aided by the charismatic patron. The large trees of the outside courtyard make for an enticing balmy evening. Being Pézenas the food is poor value, but nevertheless a handy local address.

L'Auberge du Presbytère

Home

Back

Barrage des olivettes, 34320 Vailhan 04 67 24 76 49

Cost for two: 70 €. June 2011
Web www.aubergedupresbytere.fr

Small family run establishment in the hilly oak forested hinterland north of Pézenas. Attractive good value blackboard menu, although we found some dishes lacked a bit of punch such as a crab and vegetable jelly terrine and peach clafoutis with an artificial looking green ice cream. That said, the wine list is special, the terrace and views lovely and the atmosphere unpretentsious. Popular with brits.

12 rue Boieldieu, 34500 Beziers 04 67 49 90 00

Cost for two: 130 € (weekday lunch 60 €). June 2011 + many visits
Web www.restaurant-octopus.com

Sited just off the main promenade Allee Paul Riquet, Octopus has been delivering benchmark contemporary cooking to the region since spring 2005. A lunch in 2007, served as a surprise, was seriously accomplished. Clean tasting and carefully prepared dishes from good ingredients are the hallmark. Red mullet with its liver on toast and soupions bolognaise was a sensation, as was Riz de Veau on multi-textured artichoke.
A set lunch that includes a glass of wine and coffee is one of the best RQP bargains we know but the six or eight course menu is well worth the extra. We're even learning to love the rather souless spartan dining room, and there's a nice fine weather courtyard which has been re-decorated for 2010.

22 bvd de Verdun (opposite station), 34500 Beziers 04 67 76 06 24

Cost for two: 120 €. November 2008 + previous visits

Local chef Patrick Olry has had a restaurant in Beziers for over 20 year and it's better than ever. Dishes are refined but don't loose sight of taste - thumb sized calamars with a marbled terrine that included aubergine, peppers and nuts is a simple example. Pigeon comes skewered with all its abbats and a heady game sauce. Desserts by patissier Frank Radiu have added an extra dimension. The wine list offers good value if one avoids big names. The need for the service to stick to protocol can be annoying, but it's first class and nowhere do the staff and kitchen try harder.

12 place de la Croix, 34600 Hérépian 04 67 95 06 93

Cost for two: 70 €. November 2008 + previous visits
Web www.locrerouge.fr

Set in the heart of the village L'Ocre Rouge offers a cool vaulted dining room that's the setting for the hands on cooking of Thierry Deloulay. Locally sourced ingredients, such as duck from Carlencas, are prepared with care and skill. Keep it simple may be an overworked term, but here you'll find the perfect execution. Short list of well chosen and keenly priced local wines. Much more than just a fine address in a dining out desert.

Place d'Eglise, 34480 Magalas 04 67 36 20 82

Cost for two: 70 € plus. Apr 2010 + previous visits
Web www.o-bontemps.com

Olivier Bontemps, one of the chefs who established Octopus in Beziers (below) rebuilt La Boucherie restaurant in the heart of Magalas. His flair is sound creativity with humble ingredients that maintain hints of rusticity. He is also a natural showman. A Galette de pieds en mousse de volaille was a stunning starter while Faux filet de Veau au sautoir was tender, succulent and tasty. A recent slow cooked pigeon with confit of leg and wing on a tartine of its offal had succulence and a deep flavour.
Desserts like to show off accomplished mousses and jellies and can lack balanced textures. The 8 course menu "Bontemps" is a creative delight, but a real strength is the range of menus on offer to suit appetite and pocket. Main plats often come on two plates and can present juxtaposed flavours that don't always complement each other. Olivier's best will come as he develops harmonised complete dishes. The wine list has variety with several bottles under 20€. Look out for the Mas Gabriel wines from nearby Caux.Book well in advance, especially in season.

Place, 34360 Berlou (near St. Chinian) 04 67 24 16 99

Cost for two: 80 €. April 2008
Web lefaitout.over-blog.com

Le Faitout overlooks the stream running through this dream of a small wine village. Every local wine, however humble, is on the wine list. From kitchen, the star billing is game dishes - a confit of leg of lièvre (hare) was mouth melting with extraordinary depth of flavour. Fillet of biche (young roe deer) was tender, perfectly cooked and balanced by a Grande Veneur sauce that included local arbouses (strawberry tree fruit) adding a hint of sourness and texture. Sadly the vegetables were misjudged, especially the overcooked and watery courgettes - this was early April. Desserts were rustic and tasty, such as a cold strawberry gratin with semolina and almonds. Service is friendly and easy going. It's good to find a relatively new establishment that's borrowed from the roots of hearty French cooking.

17 Grand Rue, 34210 Minerve 04 68 91 14 18

Cost for two: 65 €. November 2008
Web www.relaischantovent-minerve.fr

Another suggestion from Peter Hornby of the-languedoc-page. In a deserted off-season Minerve it was a pleasant start to find a bright spacious dining room well frequented with locals. A tournedos of duck involved finely slicing and rolling the breast before cooking and made devouring it a delight. Vegetables are hotel fayre but interesting and well prepared. Brandade done 3-ways made an acceptable starter. The kitchen certainly knows its limitations and works hard while service was friendly and enthusiastic, if a little inexperienced. Good value everyday wines. Rooms (closed off season) look to offer superb value and there's a terrace overlooking the ravine. A very useful address indeed.

Route de Perpignan, 11100 Narbonne 04 68 41 37 37

Cost for two: 80 €. April 2007 + previous visits
Web www.la-table-saint-crescent.com

Son Lionel has now taken over from one time two star Michelin chef Claude Giraud at this spacious dining area attached to the regional Wine syndicate. The exciting news is that Lionel has forged his own fresh style while retaining creativity for combinations.
A "risotto" made with pearls de Japon and shellfish with a ham and oyster ravioli followed by crusted slow cooked shredded pork with lentil puree and sprouting soya were two fine examples. Desserts are a high point. Simple local wines selected to accompany each course are available on most menus.Sadly some staff were going through the motions. Also avoid the rip-off coffee with daft chocolate trolley.

6 Quai des Negociants, 11200 Homps 04 68 91 23 16

Cost for two: 80 € (dinner). April 2011 + many visits
Web www.in-good-company.com

Right on the quay of the canal de Midi at Homps, En Bonne Companie already has a strong international following - they were virtually full one Monday night dinner. Craig Charlesworth has cooked in the best kitchens London has to offer and it shows. Classics such as hot fois gras with lentils, roast Guinea Fowl and sea bass with lobster sauce are done to perfection freshly cooked vegetables. Partner Valerie Fisk ensures smooth service. Spectacular new dining room opened in 2011 has increased indoor dining capacity. Opening is seasonal so check www.in-good-company.com first.

Route des Châteaux, 11600 Lastours 04 68 77 50 24

Cost for two: 130 €. April 2006
Web www.lepuitsdutresor.com

This is actually two restaurants. A 7/7 Cafe and Bistro and a gastronomique half at the front where we took Sunday lunch. Cress soup with snails in deep fried balls and Poulet Gauloise with gnocci, jus and light cream sauce were tasty dishes while others, such as Baltic salmon with asparagus and a tomato sauce, lacked the excitement one would expect from a 52 € menu. Good wine list.
Don't miss the interesting visitors centre for the famous Cathar ruins.

38 rue de Bonald, 12000 Rodez 05 65 42 72 10

Cost for two: 90 €. June 2002, September 2001 and October 2000
Web www.goutsetcouleurs.com

This may feel no more than everything you'd expect from a moderately swish town restaurant, but where Goûts et Couleurs wins, beyond some competent and versatile cooking, is by offering a range of menus to cover all prices and moods. You can eat well here (lunch or dinner) for, say, under 75€ for two with wine or push the boat out a touch. A fine address near the centre of an interesting town.

By the bridge, 12390 Belcastel, near Rodez 05 65 64 52 29

Cost for two: 140 €. Mar 2011 + many visits
Web www.hotelbelcastel.com

Belcastel is an idyllic village in a steep valley. Vieux Pont has very much a family run atmosphere and offers some inspired cooking using imaginative local and international ingredients. When you get fed up with the myriad of establishment that just don't try hard enough in France these days then come here. Their rooms in a converted mill 30 yards across the pack horse bridge have all mod cons and are excellent value, plus breakfast is a delight.

23 Rue Jean Payra, 66000 Perpignan 04 68 35 00 90

Cost for two: 150 €. June 2011 + previous visits

What a pleasant experience - a reputed restaurant that exceeds expectations. Fish and fresh vegetables is the forte here and the trio of main dishes on our menu confiance delighted. Tuna and aubergine came layered and rolled with a sublime red pepper sauce. Red mullet was presented with multi-textured white asparagus and a green asparagus sauce. Finally large flaky morue (salt cod) partnered a ravioli of artichoke and smoked ham on top of silky artichoke puree. Desserts, bread and all the trimmings were equally accomplished. Service is both professional and unpretentious in the surprisingly light and airy dining room. A strong list of local white wines is another example of how well thought out everything is. Christophe Comes has been cooking here over 9 years and marching towards perfection. Our return visits didn't disappoint.